How to Make Your Own Gasoline, Part 2: the Atmospheric Pressure Process Aka the Old German Recipe

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Ok, this one makes synthetic oil, not straight gasoline. Most of it you can get at Home Depot, except for the cobalt powder. That stuff will run to about $1600 of cobalt powder per 2 kilogram of processing capacity (aka, one reactor element) and the filtration membrane.

Steps

1. Build a small hopper leading down into a 2″ pipe mounted sideways. This accepts input from a shredder.
2. Put an auger with a 15-degree incline through this 2″ pipe. This will ferry biomass to the conical pyrolyzer. Drive motor should be variable speed and 2-3 HP. 3/4 RPM = 1 kilogram every 15 minutes.
3. Feed the pipe into a metal cone with a 1″ outlet at the bottom. This goes directly to the next horizontal 2″ pipe that is being used for a gasifier.
4. Put in the steam line at the end of the gasifier near the pyrolyzer with a variable output nozzle. At the other end of the gasifier should be a 200-mesh screen and a 2″ T-section down to the ash dump (6″ of pipe) and then 1/2″ to the gas filtration.
5. Run the raw gas through some lime as per the first article, along with the usual half of gas output going to heat the gasifier from the outside. Use a bbq gas regulator for that.
6. Make F-T reactor elements. They are 2″ outside and 1″ inside pipe with cooling water through the center pipe and the syngas going through the outside pipe. Between the two catalyst retention screens (200 mesh) is 72″ of cobalt catalyst. This catalyst has the following recipe by mass: 200 kg diatomaceous earth, 100 kg cobalt, 10 kg magnesium oxide. It’s the original Fischer-Tropsch recipe minus the thorium oxide.
7. Activate the catalyst by running some syngas through it at 500 degrees C for 5 hours. This is best accomplished by putting it in a pipe and heating it from the outside with burning gas.
8. Run the cooling water to a radiator as per the previous project. Truck radiators are almost perfect for this seeing as the reaction runs at 220 degrees Celsius. If there were an automotive thermostat for this temperature (428 F) it would do good in the line to the radiator.
9. Build a oil filtration chamber using a 1.8 Angstrom (.0018 micron) membrane filter to separate oil from water.

Tips

• Putting in 20kg of capacity (10 reactor elements) will yield a barrel of oil per 9 hours. Remember that oil is $100 per bbl… and the catalyst will last for 3 years.

Warnings

• No smoking!

Related wikiHows

• How to Make Your Own Gasoline

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How to Make Your Own Gasoline

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A simple Fischer-Tropsch device that shows how gasoline can be made from organic matter.

Steps

1. Start with a 5′ length of 8″ Sch. 120 309 or 310 flanged stainless steel pipe.
2. Cap it at both ends, and make sure you can take the top off to add garbage.
3. Add 2 1/4″ taps in the side for temperature and pressure gauges, and a 1/2″ in the bottom.
4. Run for 3″ and then through a 1/32″ restriction (1/2″ pipe)
5. make a steam tank from 1′ of the 8″ pipe that sits directly below the gasifier.
6. Include a 45-degree t-section in the line to add first 2 and then 1 liter of water per operation. Cap it up.
7. Attach the main line (1/2″) to the side of the gasifier near the top, then goes to for 12″ and then down into the ash filtration unit.
8. Put a 1/2″ in the side for a 450 psi relief valve. This unit should run at 800-1000 degrees Celsius and around 30 atmospheres.
9. Make the ash filtration unit out of 1′ of the 8″ pipe.
10. Put the 1/2″ inlet pipe down through the 200-mesh screen placed 9″ into the filter.
11. Fill the top with 1 kg of lime.
12. Put a 200-mesh screen in the 1/2″ outlet in the top.
13. Run a 12″ loop of the 1/2″ water pipe (Schedule 80) through here too.
14. Make everything after this of standard steel – its much cheaper.
15. Run a 1/2″ pipe to the 4-way junction.
16. Install a valve and a gas regulator (1.9mm venturi expanding to 6″ with a 3/4″ outlet)on one outlet to reduce the pressure to near normal before going back to the gasifier to heat the reaction from the outside of the unit.
17. Build rings of gas nozzles, one column each on 4 sides of the unit, with 6 nozzles each.
18. Constructing a heat shield (bricks, etc) over this will work well.
19. Put a valve on the next pipe that goes to a catalyst maker where the gas flows through a 6″ x 24″ pipe, through a screen out to a regulator (the same sort from earlier), and is burned on the outside of the unit.
20. Place a valve on the pipe going through to the main reactor.
21. To make catalyst, shut off this valve.
22. To make fuel, shut off the catalyst maker valve for 4 hours.
23. To test the relief valve, close all valves…
24. Build the main reactor. Start with 8″ by 5′ Schedule 80 pipe (anything in this part should be made of S80).
25. Cap it off at both ends.
26. Make a ring of 1/2″ coolant pipes around the inside surface of this,
27. plus a 1/2″ in top and bottom for the gas and another 1″ in the top for catalyst loading.
28. Put a screen about 6″ from the bottom, and make it slope downward towards the inlet pipe.The catalyst outlet is at the bottom of the unit through the inlet (t-section with cap).
29. Make an outer shell of 10″ pipe with enough clearance to put caps on this pipe as well with the main reactor inside.
30. Interconnect the coolant pipes in every possible way, with a main outlet on both top and bottom manifolds.
31. Fill the coolant system with distilled water
32. Make a sizable square radiator, with a steam-powered fan and return pump and a steam relief valve set for 100 atmospheres. 2 hp should be enough for both.
33. Load with 6 liters by volume of 100-mesh reduced iron or magnetite (Fe3O4).This unit should run about 350 degrees Celsius and about 25 atmospheres. Steam at 1300-1400 PSI.
34. Begin building the final processing units. A 3/8″ venturi expanding to 6″ and then capped will expand and cool the gases.
35. Ensure that the gas/water mixture drops to room temp by running some of the coolant line through the regulator in the last step.
36. Run 3/4″ to the filtering chamber.
37. Build the filtering chamber, which is a section of 6″ pipe sideways with a 1.8 angstrom membrane to filter out water (out the bottom)and a 4.3 angstrom membrane to filter light gases out the top pipe. The water is returned through a 500-psi one-way valve to the tank, the gases to a 5 gal. storage tank thats connected to the main reactor burners, and the fuel to a grounded, vented storage tank with a meter and pump.
38. Build the relief system. The pipe from the relief valve goes through a gas regulator with a 4mm nozzle and then straight upward for 6 feet, and the top 6″ is perforated with 1/4″ holes.
39. Run a small pilot light (1/8″) from the main gas storage. It should be kept lit while the machine is in operation. Happy motoring! This thing makes 1 gallon at a time – it will take 15 minutes for the reaction to complete.

Tips

• This takes your organic garbage and turns it into synthetic gasoline, which just like synthetic oil is better for the engine. Don’t forget to add 10% ethanol. I am not responsible if you blow yourself up with inferior craftsmanship!
• I also recommend that the trash be shredded – a possible design for a continuous feed is to use the steam to run motors up front that run a grinder and a piston feed.
• You could also run it through a fired tube before it hits the reactor for pyrolysis, and then cool and wet-mill afterward to turn this into an entrained -flow type reactor.
• If more power is needed one solution is to re-spec the machine so that 10% more input (and thus 10% of syngas) is used to run a superheater for the steam. This will give you more HP to play with.
• You could also use a similar diversion of gases to run pyrolysis, or perhaps an air compressor to run steam and air autothermal gasification.
• And, if you do any of the above, i recommend being an engineer first. Failing that, go to the college bookstore and buy the EIT manual. And teach yourself engineering.
• I apologize for the lack of pics. I still have yet to make this design, but the technology has been around since the 50′s

Warnings

• Ensure that everything is together tightly.
• NO SMOKING

Things You’ll Need

• Gasifier (309 stainless, flanged, ID, parts under pressure are Sch. 120)
• 1 24″ x 30″ “trashcan” (3″ outlet in bottom with additional fitting for 6″ pipe as a jacket)
• 2 6″ x 12″ pipe with (3) 1/2″ taps in side 3″ apart
• 1 9″ x 12″ pipe (2 caps, one with a 3″ outlet tap in cneter and another 1/2″ to the side)
• 1 9″ in diameter 200 mesh screen
• 3 3″ x 12″ pipe
• 1 3″ x 9″ pipe
• 1 3″ x 24″ pipe
• 12 3″ 90 degree bend
• 1 3″ 4-way
• 2 3″ Tee
• 1 6″ cap
• 1 6″ cap with
• 1 6″ cap reducing to 3″ OD
• 3 1/2″ valve 600 psi/700 F
• (this is actually part of the water system)
• 1 9″ x 12″ with (2) 1/2″ taps in the side
• 1 9″ cap
• 1 9″ cap with 1/2″ tap
• 1 1/32″ restrictor plate for 1/2″ pipe
• 2 1/2″ x 3″
• 2 1/2″ x 8″
• F-T (Std steel, Sch. 80)
• 1 10″ x 60″
• 1 8″ x 59.5″
• 24 1/2″ x 59″
• 193 1/2″ tee
• 192 1/2″ 90 degree
• 192 1/2″ x 1″
• 2 1″ x 4″
• 2 1″ 90 degree
• 2 1″ > 1/2″ adaptor
• 1 1/2″ x 36″
• 1 1/2″ x 24″
• 1 1/2″ x 24″
• 1 1/2″ 90 degree
• 2 Pressure gage to 600
• 2 Temperature to 1000
• 2 1″ 300 mesh screens
• 1 8″ 100 mesh screen
• 1 100 kg 200m iron filings
• Separation (Sch 40)
• 2 1/2″ x 12″
• 4 1/2″ x 6″
• 4 1/2″ x 36″
• 5 1/2″ 90 degree
• 1 1/2″ x 2″
• 1 6″ x 12″
• 1 6″ by 6″
• 1 6″ to 1/2″ cone
• 1 3/8″ venturi
• 1 4.7 angstrom filter
• 1 1.8 angstrom filter
• 1 10-gallon storage tank
• Gas system (309, sch. 40)
• 1 500 PSI relief valve 3″
• 1 100 psi relief valve 1″
• 1 6″ x 12″ with 3″ and (2) 1/2″ taps in the side and a 1/8″ and 1″ tap next to each other and 90 degrees from the other 3 taps.
• 2 6″ caps
• 1 1″ x 60″
• 1 1/8″ x 60″
• 1 3″ x 48″
• 3 1/2″ x 12″
• 1 1/2″ 4 way
• 50 1/2″ 3-way
• 50 1/2″ gas nozzles with a 1/8″ aperture
• 8 1/2″ 90 degree
• 4 1/2″ caps
• (std)
• 2 1/2″ (inlet and outlet) Gas regulator with 1.9mm venturi
• 2 1/2″ x 24″
• 2 1/2″ x 12″
• 4 1/2″ 90 degree
• water system (309)
• 1 6″ x 6″
• 2 6″ caps with 1/2″ taps
• 1 1/2″ x 24″
• 1 1/2″ x 12″
• 4 1/2″ x 36″
• 1 3″ x 6″
• 1 3″ cap
• 1 3″ cap with 1/2″ tap
• 1 1/2″ 500 psi check valve
• 1 1/2″ x 6″
• 18 1/2″ 90 degree
• 2 1/2″ tee
• 1 1/2″ x 60″
• 1 1/2″ x 30″
• Catalyst maker (std)
• 1 6″ x 36″
• 1 6″ cap with 1/2″ tap
• 1 6″ cap with 1/2″ tap and 2 1/4″ taps
• 3 1/2″ 90 degree
• 1 1/4″ Temp gage to 1000 F
• 1 1/4″ Pressure gage to 600 psi
• 6 1/2″ tee
• 7 gas nozzles as per gas system
• other equipment
• 2.5-hp Wet mill (3″ outlet and inlet)
• 2.5-hp concrete pump (3″ outlet and inlet)
• 5-hp steam turbine w/condenser

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Sources and Citations

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fischer-Tropsch_process

Article provided by wikiHow, a collaborative writing project to build the world’s largest, highest quality how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Make Your Own Gasoline. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.